To learn more about how and for what purposes Amazon uses personal information (such as Amazon Store order history), please visit our Privacy notice. You can change your choices at any time by visiting Cookie preferences, as described in the Cookie notice. ![]() Click "Decline" to reject, or "Customise" to make more detailed advertising choices, or learn more. The 103 third parties who use cookies on this service do so for their purposes of displaying and measuring personalized ads, generating audience insights, and developing and improving products. Cookies store or access standard device information such as a unique identifier. Your choice applies to using first-party and third-party advertising cookies on this service. These shallow dome capped rivets are available in 1/4' and the popular nickel finish. These small decorative yet useful hardware are great for joining layers of leather, fabric or canvas. Realeather Small Nickel Rivets is rated 4.1 out of 5 by 9. If you agree, we'll also use cookies to complement your shopping experience across the Amazon stores as described in our Cookie notice. Realeather Small Nickel Rivets by Realeather Item 12796504. We also use these cookies to understand how customers use our services (for example, by measuring site visits) so we can make improvements. I think I need a special tool for the nipple rivets though.We use cookies and similar tools that are necessary to enable you to make purchases, to enhance your shopping experiences and to provide our services, as detailed in our Cookie notice. I want to try and play around with jeans rivets at some point. It's stronger if you put a washer over the post before hammering. I guess you usually want to use stainless steel to avoid rust. Their steel rivets are all button-head which is usually not what you want for leather, unless you're going for a studded-armor sort of thing.Īs mentioned, nails are commonly used for rivets. These may be overkill for leatherwork, but I'll just throw it out anyway, I've purchased excellent annealed steel rivets through centaur forge, a blacksmithing supplier: You can buy a 1''圆''圆'' steel plate from a local steel supplier for next to nothing, or find it in a scrap yard, then clamp it to a sturdy workbench, or mount it to a wooden stump with that steel tape they use to hang plumbing pipes. Going off on a tangent, it also really helps to have a proper anvil surface to hammer on. And they've got copper rivets, which I think are just great, at least once you get down the peening technique They've got tubular rivets, which I haven't tried yet. But I'm willing to bet it was just an issue of poor technique. 100x10mm DIY Punk Spikes Rock Silver Tone Cone Studs, Rock Silver Tone Cone Studs Spikes For Shoes Bags Décor, DIY Leather Craft Cool Rivets. Also, a number of times, I've had problems where the post didn't properly mushroom out, causing the rivet to come apart immediately. Cutting them to size is a pain in the butt, and using their tools, it's too easy to deform the surface. They have their "quick rivets" which a few of my friends love, but I'm not a fan. I don't think Tandy even sells a proper steel rivet. ![]() You're done when there is not much of a bump sticking out and the washer is kept on fully by the peening. Use light but directional force, and move the hammer in a circle to make sure you flatten the stem all around. Use the plyers to cut off the excess (you can even save the scraps to make your own rivets if you feel creative), then use the ball peen hammer (the round side) to tap the cut stem. Place the setter on top, and lightly hammer it down the shaft. Thread the stem through the hole, then place a washer on the narrow top. You'll also need plyers that can cut, the rivet setter they sell, and a ball peen hammer. Get the longest ones you can, since they're the same price. If the rapid rivets aren't doing what you need, I highly recommend the copper rivets that Tandy sells. 1-48 of over 3,000 results for 'small rivets' Results Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. That way it has much less room to move, and should just slide down the tube. Make sure 1) its the right height and 2) you actually preset it with your fingers (it should snap into place just with the pressure from your hand). Place the leather on an anvil or other setting area of your workspace with the cap side facing up. Take the cap and place it on top of the post. The post should stick out about inch above the leather in order to properly set or crimp. ![]() Usually I use that over my own small anvil. Take the post and push it through the hole you made in the leather. I recommend still using the concave anvil it comes with.
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